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Causes of Wrinkles

Our skin is divided into three layers. The topmost layer is the epidermis in which most of the cells divide gradually and migrate upwards towards the skin's surface. These are enclosed by natural compounds called epidermal lipids (or fats) including ceramide, which forms 'glue' that holds cells tightly in place like cement in brick wall. The middle layer is the dermis where fibroblasts cells produce collagen fibres - supporting proteins that help to keep skin plump and elastic. Below this layer is the deepest layer of subcutaneous tissue to which the whole skin structure is attached.

The collagen bundles in the dermis work functions like springs in a mattress to support the skin's surface. However, when collagen is damaged, furrows open up between the bundles. The upper layers of tissue collapse into these furrows and lines, which further develop wrinkles or folds. By the time, you notice a wrinkle underlying skin has already lost collagen and elastin. Collagen is damaged by various factors. Some are unavoidable (such as ageing) and some can be lessened, if not prevented.

CAUSE: The environment
Sun damages DNA, so cells cannot replicate properly. At the same time, UV enhances enzymes known as MMPs, which help to organize old collagen but can become so aggressive that they destroy fresh collagen too.

Smoking in the sun is particularly not good. Exhaled smoke contains major levels of nicotine, tar, nitric oxide and carbon monoxide, which disturb and weaken the skin's barrier leading to collagen breakdown. Smoking causes blood vessels to tighten which limits the amount of oxygen reaching the skin. Lack of oxygen decreases collagen and elastin production. Smoking motivates the MMPs to degrade collagen just like the sun.

CAUSE: Facial expressions stress
Expression lines equal character. Stress activates corrosive hormones including 'killer' cortisols that not only hamper immunity but also increase moisture loss, leaving skin drier and more line-prone. Compressed muscles in the neck, shoulders and jaw - where so many of us hold our stress- limits blood and oxygen supply to the skin on our face. However, a furrowed brow is the most obvious sign of stress. Continuously pleating the skin through frowning causes micro-tears (minute stress tears). The knock-on effect is inflammation, which damages collagen-making skin appear less plump. Not only expression lines are stress-driven, but also the skin around the eyes and mouth - creases are inevitable.

CAUSE: Ageing
Good skin is in your genes but you are one of the lucky ones, so, do not take it for granted. After all hereditary ageing may be the cause for 20 per cent of total skin ageing. This increases from our mid-thirties, when protein levels in our skin begin to turn down by a steady one per cent every year. Later the oestrogen lowers after the menopause, more than double the rate at which protein declines - we lose a staggering 30 per cent of collagen proteins in the first five years resulting in a two per cent loss of skin thickness.

By losing collagen, skin also loses plumpness since cell division slows with age. This is for the reason that stem cells are no longer able to divide and replicate accurately and become dormant.

Retinoid-derived from vitamin A is yet the only ingredient clinically proven to enhance both collagen and moisturizing hyaluronic acid. Some peptides can improve smooth fine surface lines within a couple of weeks. However, you need retinoid for long-term cell growth and real anti-ageing benefits. Similar to vitamin C, you also need to use them round the clock for up to two months before you see results but it is worth the wait.